Friday, July 23, 2010

To quote a colleague, "History Rules"

Awake at 7am for breakfast, traditional European fare: fruits, breads, yogurt, egg in various forms, steamed veggies, smoked salmon (phenomenal, btw), cereals, juice and coffee. I sampled a little of each...wouldn't want to be rude. On the bus by 8:30.

First stop, the Acropolis featuring the definitive Greek symbol: the Parthenon. We walked the slope to the top, following in the footsteps of five millenia worth of Athenians. We hit the "stairs" that have been made to help the modern pilgrim - original marble worn smooth and slippery. We were informed that marble is far more abundant than wood in Greece, and thus is used in construction whenever possible - it's just cheaper to use marble (that explains our marble-lined hotel bathroom and the marble streets and sidewalks in the Plaka).

The Parthenon itself is a sight to behold. It has been ravaged by several invasions, including the Persians, Turks, and Christians, and devastated by Greece's frequent seismic activity. It is in the midst of a moderate restoration - what an awesome dichotomy, the ancient columns surrounding a modern crane (assembled inside and to be disassembled and removed upon completion). They are shoring up several of the columns, but not completely restoring them - the Greeks believe that the human mind will imagine what it would have looked like complete - they just want to make it structurally sound once again.

The view from up there is outstanding. Can't wait to get a better internet connection so I can post a few pics for you. Acropolis means "high city" - most Greek city/states have an acropolis - the highest point of the city - where a temple was built for the Gods. Obviously, the Parthenon was built for Athena after whom the city is named. There's a good myth there - I'll let your human mind Google it.

We descended down the south side of the Acropolis to walk through the Theater of Dionysus, the oldest theater in Europe. We sat in the seats where ancient Athenians watched the very first productions of Sophocles' and Euripides' plays. We stopped to buy water...hey, it's 94 degrees and full-on sunshine (nothing can be built higher than the Acropolis - that would dishonor the Gods - so shade is at a premium) and then walked to the Acropolis Museum.

The museum was hoped to be finished in time for the 2004 Olympic Games, but just opened last year. The primary delay was due to the fact that the spot chosen to build the museum, as you would expect, is directly over a major archeological find. There's an old neighborhood, thousands of years dead, under the museum. The museum "floats" on huge pillars that had to be meticulously arranged to as not to disturb the find. It's still an active dig, and may be open to the public at some time. The museum has been planned to the last detail to make the interested traveler feel as though he or she was making the pilgrimage to the Parthenon. It is filled with thousands of years of history, and is quite possibly the only museum of the world where you can look at the remnants of a 4000 year old frieze, and then look out the window and see where on the original ancient building it probably came from. From this humble traveler's perspective...single greatest museum ever (the only complaint being that no pics were allowed inside).

Lunch on the streets outside the museum.
Five minute stop at the original Olympic Games stadium (Kalli...something...name escapes me). It was built in the 1800s for the first "modern" games, and hosted the finish line of the 2004 marathon and the 2004 archery competition.

Then, off to the National Archeological Museum. It is a walking tour of the establishment and development of Greek statuary. Like a graphic novel - this is sequential art. You can see as Greek artisans begin to understand the nuance of emotion, how they began to master human physiology and the kind of technique that allowed for more realistic depiction of the human form, breakthroughs in statues as structure and structure as art. You get to learn how many of the pieces were part of a political agenda depicting Athenians as superior to their Greek cousins. All in one building. Amazing.

Back to the hotel for a quick dip in the pool (hey, now it's 98 degrees and full-on sun). Out to a local taverna (restaurant) for dinner: cheese and spinach pies and Greek salad to start, pork kabobs with veggies for the entree, and some kind of mystery ice cream cake for dessert. Good meal, but perhaps my least favorite so far.


We have a wake-up call in four and a half hours for our next adventure. We're in the bus at 6:45 tomorrow morning for a nearly 4 hour bus ride to Delphi. I talk a lot about Delphi in class, so I'm looking forward to it despite the time and duration. If we play our cards right, we're supposed to have time to swim in the Mediterranean tomorrow late-afternoon. Will keep you apprised.

Sorry for the long post. Trying to give you the flavor since I can't give you pictures yet. Still working on that. More tomorrow.

No comments:

Post a Comment